Just like any camp, it started a bit slow as we all got used
to each other and the routine. At first the boys were very quiet and not sure
how to respond to us muzungus with so much energy, but eventually they started
getting really excited and the atmosphere was just electric. More than anything
we were continuously learning about each other and our cultures. Of course
there were various life skills sessions and team building exercises which were
great for inspiring the kids to take the lessons home and develop their schools
or communities; it was basically taking what Peace Corps is in Uganda for and
cramming it into a week. We even went to a ropes course that was built by an
NGO in the area. The thing about Gulu and the north is that is where Kony and
the LRA swept through about a decade ago, so many of our kids were either taken
by the army at some point or had family members killed by it. Therefore, there
were a lot of deep routed feelings and beliefs that came to the surface.
Nowhere did this become more apparent than during Gender Equality day when the
girls came over from their leadership camp to discuss gender roles and issues
in Uganda. Now I don’t know whether it was the presence of girls, the suddenly
larger groups with more male peers, or the issues themselves but I saw a lot of
previously open minded and modern boys become very traditional and close minded
in their thinking and speaking. These were teenagers after all and had tons of
ego and pride to stick to, but I had a feeling I was learning a lot more about
cultural norms and development than I had anticipated. Some of the boys were on
board for total gender equality: whatever boys can do so can girls and vice
versa. However, most boys had a few sticking points that they just would not
budge from. Here are some examples of the norms we uncovered: men head the household,
do serious manual labor like digging a pit latrine, and are the ones to ask a
girl over/to marry; women do the cooking, cleaning, taking care of children,
must kneel when greeting, and can’t ride motorcycles and most certainly cannot
wear pants (the reason given is because it shows their figure and men don’t
want to have to control themselves). There was also some contention over who
can have the money, although now a days there are a lot of women in the
workforce and in positions of power so they do have rights to money management,
but rarely to property. Fortunately a lot of the talk turned towards more of an
equality and human rights agenda and I am proud to say a lot of the girls spoke
up on behalf of their own rights, especially over the wearing of pants. We even
had some great conversations about getting rid of the marriage rights which ask
men to provide a dowry, essentially buying their women, because it creates an
image of ownership.
What I took away from this experience was that culture and
social norms run very deep and to try and move into a country as a foreigner
and change certain aspects because my society has gone “past” them, seeing them
as out of fashion, is ridiculous. It took American centuries to see African
Americans as people and to allow women to vote. I also had to remind myself
that I come with a particularly modern and liberal perspective, so going into a
very conservative culture is bound to spark some feelings that I deeply have.
But if someone were to come into America, coming from a position of trying to
develop America, and told me that women couldn’t vote and gay marriage was evil
I think I would have something to say about it. Therefore, I have gained a lot
more patience and humbled myself. I am not here to change the culture or social
beliefs, I am not even here to develop. I am simply here to give the people
here an idea of what American culture is like, help them with basic skills that
can enrich their lives (reading, writing, income generating, and health
issues), and maybe inspire a few to have enough confidence that if there is
something to change, they will be the ones to do it one day.
I also learned, after hearing an inspiring story, that life
here is really hard and I really need to take a break and relax a bit. Of
course things move slowly here, it takes so much to make a good life here.
Short of inheriting money, the only ways to make a solid living is by attaining
a high level of education or starting your own business. Both are very risky.
After primary school, school fees become very high and if you want a good
school you go private, which has even higher fees. University is extremely
expensive and the job market upon completing university is extremely small and
cannot accommodate everyone who goes. On the business end, one needs to save a
lot for startup capital and there is no guarantee it will be successful. This
one gentleman worked non-stop for a few years, not even eating more than once a
day and only sleeping a couple hours, just so he could save money to create a
good business. So yea, there isn’t any of that work hard and you will succeed,
snap your fingers and it happens stuff. These are good lessons for me to learn!
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